Applying Grime's Triangle to my Garden

One of the problems horticulturists have is the struggle of knowing how to appropriately site and manage plants in naturalistic plantings.

One of the most powerful tools I use to help with these issues is Grime’s Triangle or the CSR theory—a framework that categorizes plants based on their competitive (C), stress-tolerant (S), or ruderal (R) strategies.

Imagine being able to look at a plant, notice a few characteristics, and immediately know how to use it. That’s the power of understanding plant strategies. For me, these strategies are more useful than simply labeling plants as annual, perennial, or biennial because they reveal more about how the plant behaves in various conditions.`

But, theory only takes you so far. So, I wanted to share with you readers five ways I apply the CSR theory at Ephemera Farm.

1. Covering the Ground with Ruderals

Ruderals are fast-growing plants that thrive in disturbed areas. I use species like Lupinus subcarnosus (sandyland bluebonnets), Nemophila phacelioides (baby blue eyes), and Streptanthus maculatus (clasping jewelflower) to cover open gaps in my garden beds in spring while I wait for plants to emerge. Later in the summer, I count on Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Celosia spicata (celosia), Bidens aristosa (tickseed sunflower), and annual sunflowers to provide summer interest and occupy unplanted spaces.

Ruderals in the form of cover crops can also improve the soil and prevent weeds, especially in areas where I grow edibles and cut flowers. In late summer I will sow crimson clover and mustard greens under my blackberries. These helps to prevent weed growth overwinter.

Lupinus subcarnosus (sandyland bluebonnet) fills in gaps in the garden through winter and early spring while other plants are just starting to grow.

Later in the summer, I use ruderals to cover spots I haven’t planted yet. The plus is that many of them also serve as cut flowers.


2. Choking Out Weeds with Competitors

In the more productive parts of my property where water, light, and nutrients are abundant, weeds can take over if the ground isn’t covered. In these areas I use competitors to help reduce weed growth. I interplant Carex cherokeensis with Symphyotrichum praealtum (willow aster) and Helianthus angustifolius (swamp sunflower). Carex covers the ground early in the spring, while the aggressive growth of the aster and sunflower chokes out weeds later in the season. This dynamic pairing ensures the area needs minimal attention during the year.

The dense growth of Helianthus angustifolius (swamp sunflower) limits the growth of weeds and unwanted species in the more fertile parts of our property.


3. Stress-tolerators add diversity to lawns

Stress-tolerators are plants that survive in tough conditions. Some of them go dormant for parts of the growing season, and we can use them to add diversity to our gardens and lawns.

Many people plant Narcissus (daffodils) for bright spring color. However, the downside is the abundant foliage that remains for months after flowering, which is necessary for next year’s blooms. The bulb foliage is also an issue in lawns.

I prefer stress-tolerators in turf that sync up with the mowing season like Claytonia virginica (spring beauty). This charming little plant blooms from December to March before going dormant. Later in the fall, Lycoris radiata (red spider lily), Rhodophiala bifida (oxblood lily), Habranthus tubispathus var. texensis (copper lily), and Zephyranthes chlorosolen (evening rain lily) bloom with their foliage emerging later and remaining up after frost. The last two have the added benefit of going to seed within a few weeks in case you need to do a few last cuts to the yard.

Zephyranthes chlorosolen (evening rain lily) blooms after a good rain. I’ll wait to mow over them until they set seed about three weeks later.


4. Disturbance for Managing Unwanted Plants

Disturbance is key to controlling unwanted plants and keeping competitors in check. In my garden, I use flame weeding and shallow cultivation to manage areas where weeds can take over. I’ve also invested in a Dutch hoe praised by Roy Diblik, which allows for easy push-pull weeding in tight planting spaces.

Tools like the wire weeder help me keep the soil disturbed to reduce weed growth.


5. Cutting Back Competitors

Many people have heard of the Chelsea Chop that helps to reduce upright growth. It is a form of disturbance that keeps competitive plants in check. It reduces their height, delays flowering, and makes blooms smaller but increases their number. While it is typically done in late May further north, I may cut plants back once or twice throughout the growing season.

I cut back a number of species here at Ephemera Farm to prevent them from flopping over—Eutrochium fistulosum (hollow joe pye weed), Vernonia baldwinii (western ironweed), Symphyotrichum (asters), Panicum virgatum (), Helianthus angustifolius (), and other giants. Most cut backs happen

Many of our the aster species I use from more northern haunts also have the issue that they emerge early enough in the spring that flowering is triggered under the short days. Cutting them back resets their flowering.

Cutting back competitors also helps reduce the ‘naked knees’ effect, where the lower foliage withers away and leaves bare stems.. A late spring or early summer cut back helps make clumps look tidier throughout the whole plant.

Symphyotrichum drummondii (Drummond’s aster) stems are already elongating in early April, and left unchecked will result in wiry stems come September.

Cutting Symphyotrichum drummondii to the ground helps reset the plant growth and results in a more densely flowering perennial.

The off white flowers of Symphyotrichum drummondii appear in a mound from a plant cut back the previous spring.

By applying Grime’s Triangle to my plantings, I create dynamic, resilient garden spaces that evolve with the seasons and thrive in various conditions. Understanding plant strategies helps me place the right plants in the right spots, which ultimately leads to healthier, more sustainable plantings.

Now, it’s your turn. Whether you’re filling gaps in your garden with fast-growing ruderals, using competitors to outcompete weeds, or diversifying your plantings with stress-tolerators, the principles behind Grime’s Triangle can guide you to make smarter planting choices. By observing your plants’ behaviors and using their strategies to your advantage, you can create a garden that not only looks beautiful but thrives with less maintenance and more resilience. Start small, test a few strategies, and watch how your garden transforms with the power of plant strategies in action.

Want to learn more? My presentation The Plant Strategies Playbook (⬆️) delves further into Grime's Triangle—an approach combining site, species, and management into one powerful framework. If you're eager to make smarter planting choices, fill gaps in your garden, and predict how plants will grow, this session is for you. Save time, resources, and become the eco-friendly gardener you aspire to be!

True Grit: Planting a Gravel Garden with Students

“How did I get here?” I asked myself in anxious jubilation last Friday as I watched the dump truck release its load of 6 cubic yards of gravel behind the agriculture building. The driver, a super nice guy named Mike, wished us luck on planting our gravel garden as he drove off. He had never heard of growing plants in gravel. And, up until a few years ago, really neither had I.

But, the rhetorical question really made me reflect. Why was I having students plant common perennials in gravel?


Every two years I teach Herbaceous Plants, a class devoted to the annuals and perennials that will do well in east Texas and the southeast. This semester is the fourth time that I have taught the class, and each year I get a little more focused on the use of these plants in naturalistic design. In the past years, I’ve had students design and plant prototype designed plant communities in our edible garden. We deemed these food prairies since the garden was centered on food for people, and these plantings would provide food for insects. They would also provide food for the mind where the students and I could learn better how to do this sustainable type of planting.

Through the installation of naturalistic plantings, I’ve realized that the weed management is a constant struggle. While weeds are already a challenge during the active growing season, they are also problematic during the cooler months here in the southeast when the weather is mild enough to allow persnickety winter weeds to continue growing. The hope with naturalistic plantings is that they can close quickly enough to choke out potential weeds, and if the weed bank is depleted prior, it certainly helps. But, management often requires the use of mulch, pre-emergent herbicides, and/or wedding to control such issues. Other friends and colleagues have commented on their frustration that weed management after installation can be quite cumbersome especially with the dense planting used.

A Permanent Mulch

In my studies of naturalistic design, I’ve learned that weed management can be induced by increasing the stress of the site conditions and by lowering the level of nitrogen in the soil. An inorganic mulch layer of gravel, sand, recycled concrete, or other crushed aggregates achieves both of these goals. I first became aware of the science behind this approach when I heard Cassian Schmidt speak at the 2016 Perennial Plant Conference. He had detailed data down to minutes per square meter on how much management must occur for different types of plantings, and rocky soils that create more stressful conditions for the plants reduce management time. I realized I had seen these types of plantings before. I had visited Beth Chatto’s gravel garden in England where famously none of the plants have been irrigated. And, of course the gravel garden at Chanticleer has always captured my attention.

The gravel garden at Beth Chatto’s nursery in the UK was once a parking lot.  It now features denizens from around the world that survive in more stressful conditions.

The gravel garden at Beth Chatto’s nursery in the UK was once a parking lot. It now features denizens from around the world that survive in more stressful conditions.

The gravel garden at Chanticleer hosts a wide range of species that tolerate growing in harsher conditions.

The gravel garden at Chanticleer hosts a wide range of species that tolerate growing in harsher conditions.

Hearing Cassian Schmidt’s presentation really piqued my interest in using gravel as a planting medium, but I had my doubts. I really hadn’t embraced that stress was an asset yet as I had studied about emulating nature in the other direction and enriching soils with organic matter to prevent problems with edibles. I started to think about the plant communities I had seen in west Texas or the North Carolina barrens. Perhaps it was possible, and we could make garden soil more stressful for plants.

I started looking for more information on the subject. I learned about Peter Korn and how he grows plants in straight sand conditions, and again, I was amazed that plants could survive in such a scenario. In 2019, I attended the Perennial Plant Association’s (PPA) meeting in Chicago, and on a tour visited Olbrich Botanical Gardens where Jeff Epping is director of horticulture. Right off the bus was an incredible perennial planting at the entrance. I would discover from the conversations of the people around me that the thriving plants I saw were planted in 4 to 5 inches of gravel! Once inside, we would discover other gravel plantings where Jeff had overseen their install. I’ll add here that I’ve learned much from looking at a presentation he gave at PPA in 2017.

Perennials thrive in a gravel garden at the entrance to Olbrich Botanical Gardens.

Perennials thrive in a gravel garden at the entrance to Olbrich Botanical Gardens.

Here’s another gravel garden further in Olbrich Botanic Gardens that features Calamintha, Sporobolus, Allium, and other species.

Here’s another gravel garden further in Olbrich Botanic Gardens that features Calamintha, Sporobolus, Allium, and other species.

Around the same time, I was delighted to see Ben O’Brien have success with planting in combinations of sand, gravel, and recycled concrete in Canada. He did some incredible trials of different species in these mixed aggregates, and the complete results of his work including a species-by-species breakdown of his trial can be found on his website.


HOW WELL DO GRAVEL GARDENS WORK IN THE SOUTH?

But, most of these plantings are found up north—Wisconsin, Pennsylvania, Ontario, England, Germany, and Sweden. The question is will they work in the deep south where we get quite hot later in the summer and can have prolonged dry periods. And, again I’m not focusing on xeric or alpine plants but instead common perennials to grow in gravel.

So, I decided with my class this year that we would install a gravel garden to attempt to answer this question. This class would be slightly different because due to COVID-19 we condensed the class from16 weeks down to a half semester of 8 weeks. We would just double the time we met each week to cover the same material. But, that also meant we had to expedite the process of developing the garden.

I should also note for those of you concerned about my students or me in a COVID-19 environment that I have been extremely cautious. (I’m that cautious person who hasn’t eaten out in a restaurant since March 2020, hasn’t travelled to see family or really anywhere, and was told back last spring when I was rearranging my classes that I “drank the Kool-Aid” about the hyped-up concerns over COVID-19.) There were only seven students in the class, which allowed for social distancing through this entire course, and students wore masks as well, too.

Here is the site of our future gravel garden at the bottom of Sprout, our edible garden in the Plantery.  The Plantery is our teaching gardens, grow houses, and micro-farm Sprout located near the SFA Agriculture building where we can provide student…

Here is the site of our future gravel garden at the bottom of Sprout, our edible garden in the Plantery. The Plantery is our teaching gardens, grow houses, and micro-farm Sprout located near the SFA Agriculture building where we can provide students with hands-on learning opportunities.

Prior to installing the garden, I covered many of the basics of naturalistic design from competitor—stress-tolerator—ruderal survival strategies to Nigel Dunnett’s FLOW design method in class. Students easily understood Nigel’s classifications of anchors (primary plants in the installation), satellites (plants that provide seasonality around the anchors), matrix species (the groundcover species, typically grasses), and free floaters (self sowers that pop up here and there). We then practiced iterating and creating naturalistic plantings, first as students in small groups and then as solo projects.

For our gravel garden, I provided students with a plant list of species that we had both ordered and propagated. Normally, we would choose the plants early in class and then order them or grow them, but the shortened semester forced my hand. I also provided students with a rendering of the site dimensions where the students were able to apply what they learned in class, and from a measuring lab we determined that the full sun site was approximately 400 square feet in size. Below are two anonymous examples of the drawings that students developed for the class.

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From these drawings I then synthesized them into one cohesive design. Again, normally, we would do this activity in class, but with the time limitations I decided to render the design myself. The design we went with was to have taller edge species at the back of the planting near the fence that my nursery management lab had built the previous fall. Then, a sinuous curve would snake through the bed with plant anchors and plant satellites arranged on either side of the bed. Some large rocks remained in the bed from a previous planting that students like to sit on and take pictures, and we decided to just use them as part of the design. The taller species would provide a nice floral backdrop and the pathway would pass right by these larger stones.

The design for the gravel garden.  The number following the species indicates the number of plants to set out at that location.  For guidelines we used the posts from the fence.

The biggest challenge was sourcing the mineral mulch. I had almost given up when I found a company in town that sold baked clay that is used on roads, and it appeared to be clean of weeds, had the angular size of grit that we desired, and had that gray-blue color that I had seen before at other gardens. It was a bit pricey coming in a $110 a cubic yard, but I was prepared to pay for good quality material. This gravel was delivered last Friday in anticipation of planting this week.


TUESDAY MORNING CLASS, SPREADING THE GRAVEL

We finished leveling the soil in our morning class. We then put stakes in that had two markings, one for the soil line and one for the gravel line. Students then began to spread at least 4 inches of gravel over the entire site. We then went back and checked with trowels to make sure that the gravel depth was right over the bed.

A view of the site from the ground prior to any gravel.  Oh, and in case you’re curious about the white in the Sprout garden, those are floating row covers over tomatoes.   We had a freeze forecasted this week!

A view of the site from the ground prior to any gravel. Oh, and in case you’re curious about the white in the Sprout garden, those are floating row covers over tomatoes. We had a freeze forecasted this week!

Students begin spreading gravel over the site.

Students begin spreading gravel over the site.

The stakes really helped us check the gravel depth.

The stakes really helped us check the gravel depth.


TUESDAY AFTERNOON LAB, PLANTING THE ANCHORS AND SATELLITES

In the afternoon lab, we flagged our pathway and then began placing the the anchors and satellite species into the bed. I paired students off to look at the design and then place plants appropriately with notes on how many plants should be placed in each area. From reading about gravel gardens I was aware that we needed to knock off excess soil to decrease the organic matter in the bed and remove the top of the substrate from the rootballs to reduce the weed load we might be putting in the beds. So, when we began planting, I instructed students to use Tubtrugs to accomplish these tasks and not get soil in the gravel. Afterwards, we watered the plants in well.

Students begin setting out plants based on the design.

Students begin setting out plants based on the design.

Mike and Hanna check the design for the placement of Symphyotrichum oblongifolium ‘Raydon’s Favorite’.

Mike and Hanna check the design for the placement of Symphyotrichum oblongifolium ‘Raydon’s Favorite’.

The anchors and satellites laid out prior to planting.

The anchors and satellites laid out prior to planting.

Brendan plants a Pycnanthemum tenuifolium into gravel.

Brendan plants a Pycnanthemum tenuifolium into gravel.

Nyree knocks the soil off a Pycnanthemum tenuifolium plant.

Nyree knocks the soil off a Pycnanthemum tenuifolium plant.

Hope waters the plants in after planting.

Hope waters the plants in after planting.

The anchors and satellites planted into gravel.

The anchors and satellites planted into gravel.


THURSDAY MORNING CLASS, PLANTING THE MATRIX

We wrapped up the planting Thursday morning by planting the matrix species. We planted more Nassella, and then we introduced a few Sporobolus heterolepis in the front and Muhlenbergia reverchonii in the back. We also scattered Echinacea purpurea and Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’ through the latter last two grasses to see how they will do on site as self sowers.

Planting round two begins with installing the matrix layer.

Planting round two begins with installing the matrix layer.

The gravel garden fully planted!!! Yay!!!  We still haven’t decided what edging to use to mark the path.  We may wait until the plants fill in a bit to determine that.  We are thinking willow, bent metal, or maybe just leaving it bare.

The gravel garden fully planted!!! Yay!!! We still haven’t decided what edging to use to mark the path. We may wait until the plants fill in a bit to determine that. We are thinking willow, bent metal, or maybe just leaving it bare.

An overview perspective of our new gravel garden.  And, in case you are wondering about the area to the right of the gravel garden that’s been recently cleared, we eventually want to turn that into a practice patio garden where students can overhaul…

An overview perspective of our new gravel garden. And, in case you are wondering about the area to the right of the gravel garden that’s been recently cleared, we eventually want to turn that into a practice patio garden where students can overhaul it every few years. Since we are a small program with limited funds, we tend to piecemeal projects together. This gravel garden pathway will feed right into the space as if it is part of an extended back yard to the mock patio.

As Jeff Epping suggested in his presentation, we will irrigate often for the next several weeks until plants are established. And, reflecting back over the whole process the one change I want to make is to try to find cheaper gravel that achieves the same effect as this baked clay product.

I look forward to seeing the true grit that these plantings will offer for us here in the southeast. I asked students what they loved most about this project. Common comments were how good it looked at the end, learning that plants could grow in gravel, and the excitement to see how the planting will look in a few months. I, too, have that same excitement, though with a dash of the fear of failure. But, I know that failure feeling is essential when trying something new that pushes the boundaries of what is possible and learning new things about horticulture. And, as I kidded with the students, should this fail, well, we have 6 cubic yards of gravel for our future walkways! :-)