Celebrating Easter in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest

One of the most memorable Easters of my life was in 2011 when I attended a solo sunrise service in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest just across Lake Santeetlah from Robbinsville, NC.

It was part of my weekend wildflower pilgrimage in the mountains.  Easter is a fickle date since it is held in tandem with the Sunday following the first full moon after the vernal equinox.  That year would be one of the latest dates it would fall, and with time off from grad school classes, it would coincide perfectly with peak bloom in the mountains.  

I left Cherokee, NC at... well I don’t even remember when.   Probably 5:00 or 5:30 in the morning.  I drove a little over an hour until I reached the Cherohala Skyway very near my destination.  I pulled off into the Hooper Cove parking lot (elevation 3096 ft) at just before 7 am, and I watched the sunrise.  From there, I left to head to Joyce Kilmer.  

Sunrise at the Hooper Bald overlook on the Cherohala Skyway

Sunrise at the Hooper Bald overlook on the Cherohala Skyway

Vibrant foliage of Rhododendron flank a stream in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.

Vibrant foliage of Rhododendron flank a stream in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.

But, why all the effort to visit this forest?  Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest is one of the few virgin forests left in eastern North America.  I had heard tales of the mammoth trees, and I just had to see them.   You may also wonder who Joyce Kilmer is.  He authored the poem “Trees”.  It is a fitting passage for an Easter morning spent in the woods. 

I think that I shall never see
A poem lovely as a tree.

A tree whose hungry mouth is prest
Against the earth’s sweet flowing breast;

A tree that looks at God all day,
And lifts her leafy arms to pray;

A tree that may in Summer wear
A nest of robins in her hair;

Upon whose bosom snow has lain;
Who intimately lives with rain.

Poems are made by fools like me,
But only God can make a tree.
— Joyce Kilmer
Tiarella, Phlox, and a host of other perennials blanket the understory in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.

Tiarella, Phlox, and a host of other perennials blanket the understory in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.

He died in 1918 during World War I in France, and to remember him, the New York chapter of the Veterans of Foreign Wars asked the government to name a forest in his memory in the mid–1930’s.  Around the same time, the government purchased 3,800 acres of pristine forest in North Carolina to preserve “one of the few remaining examples of the great hardwood forests that covered the slopes of the Appalachians when Columbus discovered the New World”.  It was this tract of land that would be named in his honor in July 1936.  

Fronds as far as the eye can see.

Fronds as far as the eye can see.

I was enraptured upon my arrival, and I saw not another soul while I walked the trail. I quickly saw why the government paid $28 an acre instead of the typical $3 or $4 an acre cost at that time.  I stood in a forest cathedral with the rays of light coming through the stained glass foliage above and the choir of songbirds singing in the broken morning.  The trees had these interesting lolly-pop crowns, few branches below from self pruning and rounded tops from crown shyness.  I suppose both those effects were due to being ancient and clustered so close together.   They were MASSIVE, over 100 feet tall, and many of these giants from this long lost era had been dated to at least 400 years old.

 
Hard to have scale for how massive this tree is…

Hard to have scale for how massive this tree is…

 
…until I stand at the base.

…until I stand at the base.

Look at this little cutie. Viola canadensis or Canada viola. One is lovely…

Look at this little cutie. Viola canadensis or Canada viola. One is lovely…

…and thousands are even lovelier. Look at all those white flowers!

…and thousands are even lovelier. Look at all those white flowers!

And, there was magic.  The forest floor was carpeted with wildflowers and natives of all kinds, and the earth-hugging tapestry shifted with habitat—ferns on one hillside, violets on another, and Tiarella and Phlox scattered along side a dry creek.  I encountered half a dozen species of Trillium.  Most were past their prime, but Trillium vaseyi and Trillium cuneatum still looked good.   

In Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest I met Carex plantaginea for the first time. Most know it by its seersuckered foliage, but I was enchanted by the inflorescences.

In Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest I met Carex plantaginea for the first time. Most know it by its seersuckered foliage, but I was enchanted by the inflorescences.

Adiantum and Uvularia, zig and zag.

Adiantum and Uvularia, zig and zag.

My first encountered with the urn-shaped flowers of Gaylussacia ursina.

My first encountered with the urn-shaped flowers of Gaylussacia ursina.

One of my favorite Trillium is Trillium vaseyi. I love it for its large (about the size of a camera lens cap) crimson flowers.

One of my favorite Trillium is Trillium vaseyi. I love it for its large (about the size of a camera lens cap) crimson flowers.

A close up of Trillium vaseyi.

A close up of Trillium vaseyi.

I saw plants growing on top of fallen trees.  These nurse logs as they are called were covered with Tiarella and other flora of the forest.  And, I saw the shadows of these life forces, evidenced by the tree root stilts showing where the log’s circumference used to be.

My jaw dropped at seeing plants growing on logs for the first time. The white-flowering Tiarella cordifolia looks quite happy. These habitats must be moist to support plant growth on fallen timber.

My jaw dropped at seeing plants growing on logs for the first time. The white-flowering Tiarella cordifolia looks quite happy. These habitats must be moist to support plant growth on fallen timber.

And, here the ghost of a log can be seen. I wonder how long ago it faded into the forest floor.

And, here the ghost of a log can be seen. I wonder how long ago it faded into the forest floor.

When I see such sights, I am filled with wonder and awe but also a bit of sadness as I think that much of the world used to look like this virgin forest before we spoiled it.   Even some parts of the forest showed the effects from mankind.  Along the path were massive Tsuga canadensis that had fallen with trunks twisted like toothpicks.  I wondered what had caused such damage.  Later, I read how they used dynamite drilled into the trunks to explode them and mimic these snags falling from a storm.  These ancient ones had to be felled because they had died from the horrid woolly adelgid, and those near the trail had become a liability for potentially dropping detritus on pedestrians.  

 
Dynamite-exploded trunks of Tsuga canadensis, eastern hemlock. A few dead trees still stand.

Dynamite-exploded trunks of Tsuga canadensis, eastern hemlock. A few dead trees still stand.

 
Here’s a close up so you can see how gnarled they were.

Here’s a close up so you can see how gnarled they were.

I count 225 rings on the cross section of this fallen Tsuga canadensis. A few small sections were too faded to count, and I didn’t include them. With that error it means that this tree likely was a seedling at the founding of our country. So sad to …

I count 225 rings on the cross section of this fallen Tsuga canadensis. A few small sections were too faded to count, and I didn’t include them. With that error it means that this tree likely was a seedling at the founding of our country. So sad to see that we led to its demise with the introduction of the woolly adelgid.

However, even in its brokenness, visiting places such as Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest reminds me of the wonders we can still experience on this planet.  And, it resurrects the belief that we need to do all we can to protect these special treasures.  For, I too, think that I shall never see a poem lovely as a tree.  And, a forest as lovely as Joyce Kilmer. 

Hey, Sarracenia, I like your style

I learned how Sarracenia pollinate this week!  Some of my pitcher plants are flowering, and I text Jevon, one of my students who is keen on carnivorous plants, to help me understand what to do since I wanted to make some crosses in my collection.  He told me that the cap that shields the pollen is actually a modified style and has stigmas on the tips.  Bees enter the flower through entrances on the style platform where pollen drops, and before they leave they would brush against one of the five stigma, hopefully carrying pollen from a previous individual.  Boom, cross pollination occurs.  It’s a brilliant approach to help prevent self pollination.  I think the stigmas curled up and away from the pollen-loaded stamen helps even more.  

The appendage I’m grasping is part of the style on this Sarracenia alata. The white spot near my thumb is the stigma where I’ve just placed some pollen from Sarracenia × areolata. There are five stigmas, and I applied pollen to all five in hopes of …

The appendage I’m grasping is part of the style on this Sarracenia alata. The white spot near my thumb is the stigma where I’ve just placed some pollen from Sarracenia × areolata. There are five stigmas, and I applied pollen to all five in hopes of getting seed set.

I was blown away.  In all this I realized I had never seen a pitcher plant in flower before with the draped petals, and thus never really had a chance to process the floral mechanisms.  It’s always nice as a professor when the student becomes the teacher.  


Dividing Leucojum before a Rain

I love dividing perennials before a good soaking spring rain.  I feel like I’m making a great investment.  Not only am I increasing the number of plants I have, but I’m also saving time by not having to immediately water them for the next few days.  

It has to be a sizable forecast, too.  A tenth of an inch won’t do.  When I saw an inch of rain was slated to come later in the evening, I knew that it would be a great day for transplanting.  

Leucojum aestivum ‘Gravetye Giant’ was on my list.  I planted a handful of bulbs two falls ago under a Taxodium at the edge of our small orchard, and I have enjoyed their perky white blooms from our kitchen window for the past few weeks.  I noticed them slowing down and thought now would be a good time to divide some.  

One plant…

One plant…

…becomes two.

…becomes two.

With shovel in hand, I loosened a clump from the soil and teased tunicate bulbs apart.  It’s easy to break these these geophytes apart at the basal plate. If they were still part of one bulb, I held off splitting. I plunged the shovel back into the soil, pried back and forth, and dropped the small bulbs in.  Larger bulbs take a few more stabs to open up a spot large enough.  

 
A Leucojum planted back into the soil after division.

A Leucojum planted back into the soil after division.

 

Once they are in the ground, I provide purchase with a firm foot step and close the soil’s wound.   A tenant of my life is water plants after planting.  But, I’ll break it this once.  It is late enough in the day, and I’m betting on mother nature’s liquid help.  

A firm press on the soil closes the gap.

A firm press on the soil closes the gap.

It’s like the Leucojum was always there. And, that’s not a weedy grass. That’s Carex glaucodea on it’s left. I’m bulking it up in this area as well.

It’s like the Leucojum was always there. And, that’s not a weedy grass. That’s Carex glaucodea on it’s left. I’m bulking it up in this area as well.

In case you’re wondering, my investment paid off.  It started raining around sundown, and we got an inch and a half overnight.  Now I await more blooms next year.  

Sandyland Bluebonnets Blooming

My sandyland bluebonnets (Lupinus subcarnosus) are flowering!  Yippie, the first bluebonnets blooming at our house!  And, what a show they are.

Lupinus subcarnosus flowering at our house.

Lupinus subcarnosus flowering at our house.

All four of them.  #sarcasm

I guess something went wrong with their germination?  Last fall, I scarified the seeds with a fingernail clipper since I didn’t have very many and soaked them in water overnight.  I counted about a dozen that germinated, but these few are the only survivors left. Hopefully, they will spawn more next year.  

Eventually, this scene is what I want.  

2019-0330-006 Lupinus subcarnosus-save4web.jpg

Last spring, Karen and I ventured out to Chireno, TX to see Peter Loos’s patch of sandyland bluebonnets.  My seeds last fall came from Peter’s population.

When people think of bluebonnets, they usually conjure images like the following of Lupinus texensis

A swath of Lupinus texensis blooms alongside a Texas Hill County highway.

A swath of Lupinus texensis blooms alongside a Texas Hill County highway.

However, Lupinus subcarnosus is lesser known and native to east Texas and Louisiana.  Lupinus texensis has a broader distribution west.  You can easily identify the two.  Lupinus texensis has a tuft of white at the top, which earned it the name el conejo or the rabbit from the Spanish settlers who saw it.  This tuft is absent on Lupinus subcarnosus because the flowers are more spaced apart on the apex.  Most people think Lupinus texensis is more showy due to the dense blooms on the raceme.  I find some humor in this preference because it was actually Lupinus subcarnosus that was first adopted as the state wildflower.  Finally, all bluebonnets were lumped under that title in 1971.  

Either way, both flowers remind me of blue Yoshi from the Mario games.  

 
Blue Yoshi!

Blue Yoshi!

 
Now you can’t unsee blue Yoshi, can you?  Note the banner spot color change on the lower flowers.

Now you can’t unsee blue Yoshi, can you? Note the banner spot color change on the lower flowers.

And, the white spots on the banner petal will change to a reddish-purple color with age on both species. For Lupinus texensis the color change happens around 6 days after opening, which is believed to be a signal for pollinators. Researchers have noted that around 95% of bee visits are while the spot is still white, and the pollen count drops precipitously after 6 days. I assume these pollination dynamics are similar for the closely related Lupinus subcarnosus.

From the looks of it, my four plants have a few purple spots on them indicating I should see seed in a few weeks.  That’s a good start to having more.